Shade cloth has eyelets down the edges and nowhere else, which is fine until the middle sags or you need to tie it off somewhere the manufacturer never thought of. The usual fix is punching a hole, and a hole in shade cloth becomes a tear by the second summer. These give you a fixing point anywhere on the fabric without cutting anything, and they come off again.

Why They Stand Out

• A tie-off point wherever you want one — not just at the factory eyelets. That is the whole reason these exist, and it is what stops a big span flogging itself to death in a nor'wester.
• Two ways to fix, from the one clamp — thread rope or cord through the sleeve on top, or drive a peg straight through the square hole in the middle to pin the cloth to the ground.
• No holes, no drilling, no grommet tool — pins on one disc push through the weave into holes on the other, spreading the load across the disc instead of one point.
• They come off and go back on — reposition mid-job, or strip them off in autumn and reuse them next season.
• Fifty in a pack — enough to do a full run of shade cloth over a veggie patch with plenty spare, rather than rationing them.
• UV stabilised plastic — they stay out in full Australian sun and hold their strength right through the season.

Where to Use Them

• Shade cloth over the veggie patch — the job they do best. Clamped a few centimetres in from the edge, run cord through the sleeves and tension it to star pickets.
• Bird netting over fruit trees — closing the gap at the trunk, joining two pieces, pinning the skirt to the ground so nothing crawls under.
• Hail and wind protection — pulling plant netting tight over young plants before a storm, pinned with garden pegs through the centre holes.
• Greenhouse and igloo — mesh onto a hoop frame without drilling it.
• Frost cloth in the cold months — on and off through the season without wrecking the fabric.
• Privacy screening on a fence — a run of mesh along colorbond or a pool fence, clamped and tied rather than cable-tied through cut holes.
• Chook run and aviary mesh — joining panels and pinning the base. They work as mesh clips and fabric clips on any open weave.

How They Work

1. Open the clamp — two round discs on a hinge. One face has moulded pins, the other has holes.
2. Lay the fabric over the pinned disc and fold the other disc onto it.
3. Press until it clicks — the pins pass through the weave and seat in the opposite holes, gripping the cloth between two flat faces.
4. Fix it — rope through the top sleeve, or a peg or tent stake through the centre hole into the ground.

How to Get the Best Out of Them

1. Space them about every 50 cm on a loaded edge — closer at the corners, which is where the force ends up.
2. Clamp back from the edge, not on it — three or four centimetres in gives the fabric something to hold.
3. Tension across the span, not down onto one clamp — an even pull is what keeps cloth flat and quiet.
4. Use soft cord through the sleeve — rope or webbing, not fencing wire, which saws through plastic.
Tip: put a clamp at each corner and the midpoint of each side first, tension it, then add the rest. Most people clamp everything, discover the cloth is crooked, and start again.

Care and Maintenance

• Open them before you pull the cloth off — yanking a clamped sheet is what tears the weave.
• Keep spares in a jar — fifty small black clips vanish into a shed floor.
• Check the pins each season — a clamp with a snapped pin goes in the bin, not back on the cloth.
• Rinse the grit off before storing, or they will not close properly.

Specifications

What's Included

• 50 × Mesh clamps
• Fixes with your own rope, cord or garden pegs